Thursday, June 23, 2011
Burger joint of the week: Cotham's Mercantile.
Well, frankly… I was out trying all these new burgers....
So if you live in Little Rock, why in tarnation would you go all the way out to Scott to get a burger when you could have one right on Third Street?
But there’s also the burger. I made an egregious mistake when I ordered a Hubcap the other day. I chose to stick with fries instead of onion rings. That shoulda been my undoing right there.
At least I didn’t make the other mistake. I love fried green tomatoes, but I don’t care for Cotham’s because they’re too thin. And people keep telling me “no, they’re really thick!” but both times I’ve had them they’ve been rather thin and more cornmeal than tomato. Meh. Maybe I will try again.
You want to hear about the burger. And I’ll tell you this — the patty for the Hubcap burger is nice, seedless and fluffy. The patty is thick, deliciously seasoned with that Cotham’s special spice
I am jesting, of course. A bottom bun does come with the whole affair. But if you don’t eat yours all in one setting, it’ll disappear.
Still… it is Cotham’s. There is a certain amount of reverence involved in making the pilgrimage, walking through the doors at the old Mercantile and observing the atmosphere that’s entertained generations of wayward food lover. Besides, it’s worth a peek at the napkin art.
You’ll find Cotham’s in Scott at the intersection of Highway 161 and Cotham Road, a few blocks east of Highway 165 and the Plantation Agriculture Museum. It’s about a 12 minute drive from the outskirts of North Little Rock. Open 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. Monday through Thursday, til 8 p.m. Friday and Saturday and closed Sunday. (501) 961-9284.