Browning's Mexican Restaurant as it appeared in the late 1950s. |
But yes, even I have memories of a Saltillo platter at the old standby. I think that, for a certain set of Little Rock resident, it was something you had to do at least once.
Today, the Heights Taco and Tamale Company opens in the space that housed Browning's for more than 60 years. I'm sure you've seen the previews... somehow, I didn't make the cut to get in early, but when I do enter the doors as a paying customer, I'll share my experiences. Before I do, though, I should note the restaurant that managed to imprint itself on Ark-Mex cuisine.
Cheese dip and salsa at Browning's Mexican Grill, 2012. |
John Tom Browning. |
Ark-Mex food is different from Mexican fare and from Tex-Mex, too. Ask anyone who's spent a great deal of time in Texas and visited "Mexican" restaurants both here and there. Cheese dip is a
Boyd Montgomery (on left). |
Ark-Mex food has evolved around the inclusion of cheese dip. It tends to utilize more pintos than black beans, darker American and Cheddar cheeses instead of white or Mexican cheeses. Tomatoes are a big part of the equation, fresh and in the salsa. Tortilla chips are thicker, and there's a prevalence of tamales that include chicken and beef in addition to pork.
When that interpretation was still being worked out, abominations were created. For some reason, some of our restaurants here never got over the idea of smothering everything, and I do mean everything, in yellow cheese. Casa Viva, the inferior short-lived successor to Casa Bonita, was accused of using Campbell's Cheddar Cheese soup over its enchiladas. There were waves of interest in different things... nachos in the late 70s, fajitas in the late 80s, quesadillas in the 90s and the fish taco in the 21st century.
Browning's menu from 1949. |
Interior in the early 1950s. |
There were many other things on the menu, as you can suspect. Don't think this putting an egg on everything idea is
One of the original wall murals painted by Mallie Vena. |
Vic Slater once cooked at Brownings. |
The famed Plato de Saltillo. |
A flyer from 1976. |
As the years went by, the restaurant expanded. Do you recall the location out on Baseline, or on McCain in North Little Rock, or on the "New Benton Highway?" Do you even recall the New Benton Highway? There was also El Patio on University, which was within my range (yes, my friends, I am originally an 09-er, and if you know what that means, you know what it means) for us to enjoy that pureed "salsa" sauce with yellow chips in a bag that would always develop grease spots. The Browning's flavor, after all, did make it out of the Heights.
For a city and even a state that remained secluded and mysterious to the rest of the world, Browning's was a treat. Once the doors opened, and men like Sam Walton, Bill Clinton and the Stephenses managed to get Arkansas spoken of in terms that didn't include "hillbillies," things changed. Our palates
The Mexirrito, my go-to dish from Browning's. |
I noticed on the menu for the new Heights Taco and Tamale Company, amongst the offerings, the Plato de 1947. It includes enchilada, taco and tamale... but it's no Plato de Saltillo. No, my friends, that sounds like it may be lost to time.
Then again, Scott McGehee, John Beachboard and Russ McDonough's Yellow Rocket Concepts has managed to bring back other original flavors. Of note is Local Lime's Taco Kid Tuesday, which revives many of the popular items from the old Taco Kid. Perhaps, once Heights Taco and Tamale Company encounters its first few weeks of customers, we'll see a revival of the dish most associated with the old Browning's.
One way or another, the Browning's known by generation of Little Rock natives is gone for good, only to remain in the memories of those who congregated at its tables. If you'd like to take a trip down memory lane, the restaurant's last owners have left a Facebook page active that includes many photos from the eatery's early days.
I am Margie and Blackie Donnelly's grand daughter. We are all (17 of us) committed to correcting the misinformation that Blackie invented cheese dip. Margie, who was a character in her own right, was the cook and restaurateur in the family. Blackie was memorable but he wouldn't have known which end of the spoon to hold to stir the dip.
ReplyDeletePlease contact me at kat@tiedyetravels.com. I am interested in learning more.
DeleteAs child growing up in Little Rock in the early to mid 60's, Browning's and their saltillo platter was always my favorite meal and place to go. Great memories.
ReplyDeleteAs usual, great article Kat!
ReplyDeleteLove this article. Browning's was our go-to restaurant on Friday nights when I was in grammar school. I always ordered a grilled cheese sandwich & fries. As I got older I decided I liked Mexican food and ordered beans & rice. Then I added a cheese enchilada. The memories of Browning's makes me smile. I had forgotten about the murals in the back room. Thanks so much. Browning's was a big part of my life while growing up. Kind of like the Heights Theater and the Saturday matinees. Has there been an article on that yet?
ReplyDeleteI was crazy about Brownings and a big fan from the 1960s until it closed. I liked the restaurant's weird take on chili rellenos—with lots of chili, cheese, and white onions—and the funky hot sauce. The chips were always perfect. What's more, they made great fried chicken. In fact, it was the last walk-in restaurant that I know of in Little Rock that made cooked-to-order fried chicken.
ReplyDeleteI enjoyed reading this article, even though it is now 2020. I am confused, what was the Mexican Restaurant in North Little Rock, maybe Protho Juntion area? I'm talking early 70's
ReplyDeleteMexico Chiquito
DeleteMy father used to spin a yarn about the sombreros hanging on the wall--he'd say "bunch of rowdy Mexicans came in and were creating trouble and the 'bouncer' threw them into the wall, feet-first, and all that's left are there hats!"
ReplyDeleteMy folks also used to order ice water with their beers and pour the ice water into the beer glass to have a cold glass to pour the beer into. Genius!
I worked at Browning's when I was in high school bussing tables. Don Phelan was the owner and manager. I remember that we served breakfast and one of the cooks made the best cinnamon rolls I've ever had! Every once in a while she would make an extra batch for the evening crew and they were to die for! It was a good place to work!
ReplyDeleteI used to eat here all the time in the 70s & 80s. Remember the Razorback football schedules on the walls with the scores filled in. I also played on the Browning's sponsored Little League team at Junior Deputy coached by Mr. Callahan.
ReplyDeleteMy two boys also started ball at Junior Deputy ❤️
DeleteMy family (often accompanied by neighboring families) dined at Browning's three, if not four, Friday nights every month - starting in 1954 and continued until I graduated Cotillion about 1960-61. The photo showing the main dinning room purporting to be early 1950's is not accurate. It is circa 1968-1970. Early 50s had a counter with approximately 6 fixed stools with no backs (each round seat rotated) situated on the left side of the main dinning room.
ReplyDeleteI worked at Browning’s as a dishwasher while in high school 1963-65. I started the job earning $.40 per hour. Once I proved worthy of this position and displayed extraordinary dishwashing skills, my hourly compensation was raised to $.50 per hour.
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