Arkansas has some fine restaurants – some that fall into haute cuisine, some that dwell in the comfort food region, some that have specialties that rival those in large cities. Many have staples like farm-raised catfish, greens, and fried pies. Some even dabble in new directions with slow-movement foods, produce from local farms, and organics.
But as far as I’ve been able to tell, there’s just one all-organic restaurant in Arkansas. And you won’t find it in Little Rock, Pulaski County, or even Central Arkansas. In fact, it’s a three hour drive from my Little Rock home to get there. But it sure is worth it.
The Boardwalk Café overlooks the Little Buffalo River in Jasper. It’s part of a block-long complex that includes The Arkansas House – a rather nifty bed and breakfast, a hair salon that specializes in pampering guests, and the only health food store in all of Newton County. Joseph and Janet Morgan started the café three years ago, and it’s a great place to stop on any Scenic Highway Seven trip.
The Morgans are doing something difficult in what might seem a rather unlikely place – offering a completely organic menu in a town that’s not easy to reach by 18-wheeler. They’re doing that by reaching out to area farmers and offering those farmers a chance to sell their produce locally, where it can be enjoyed at the peak of freshness. Most of the meat and just about all of the produce the Morgans serve, comes from 35 area farmers. The beef they cook up comes from their own organic farm, and most of the spices they use come from flower and herb beds on the property.
I’ve been by several times… and being the stealth food writer that I am, usually enjoy the atmosphere and take my pictures without comment, and leave with the contentment of a good meal. When I was pregnant, it was an especially great stop – I had developed an allergy to corn syrup (which has thankfully left me!) and was excited by the idea of a restaurant where I could order something other than iced tea from the beverage menu. Each time I have found a similar experience – a warm atmosphere, clean restrooms, lovely artwork from local artists available for purchase, and unique and delightful items of culinary delight to savor.

Salads are made with fresh greens plucked the same week from local greenhouses. The New England Clam Chowder sometimes offered is a light broth with whopping chunks of skin-on potatoes and fresh clams so pink you might mistake them for salmon.
And I can’t help but mention the Black Walnut Pie ($5 a slice or $24 for a whole pie). I’ve dropped in before
Now, you might look at the prices and reconsider the “comfort” of such a meal. While not as pricey as many urban eateries, the menu is a bit more expensive than the average casual roadfood restaurant. But the Morgans have taken a heck of a chance, reviving a restaurant in a spot once occupied by the decades-old Dairy Diner, and creating an oasis of natural, organic food while utilizing the rich natural resource in Newton County’s farming community. Such things don’t come cheaply.
The Morgans are doing something else, too – they’re trying to save the environment while serving up good food. They use to-go containers made from biodegradable recycled materials. Their salad containers are made of corn. They use Seventh Generation toilet paper and paper towels. They only utilize all-natural cleaning supplies – which don’t leave a toxic residue.

Of course, if you want to get technical, not everything is organic – the restaurant does sell Coke and Pepsi products alongside the joyful Blue Sky sodas, organic coffees and teas, Goji shots and fruit juice. It’s not 100% local, either – clams, shrimp, and crabmeat are flown in from elsewhere. But it’s an incredibly good attempt, and one not to be passed up when you’re in the area.
You’ll find the Boardwalk Café just south of the Little Buffalo River Bridge on Highway 7. For more information, check out the complex website or call (870) 446-5900.
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