Dinerland: Littlefield's Cafe in North Little Rock.

Dining at all the fancy and new places is glamorous, but when the average joe needs a bite to eat at lunch, a good old fashioned diner fits the bill. That's exactly what you get at Littlefield's Diner in North Little Rock.

I Dare You Not To Read The Walls at Molly's Diner.

Back in the 1960s, 1970s and 1980s, there was a certain kitsch that cropped up in restaurants all over the United States -- places where every sort of memorabilia was placed helter-skelter on walls, posts, sometimes even ceilings.  Some of these, such as Feltner's Whatta-Burger in Russellville, became famous for the changing displays.  There's even several chain restaurants today, from Cracker Barrel to Applebee's, that continue to display "flair" and antique pieces along their walls to fill space and "create atmosphere."

Molly's Diner in Warren doesn't need an atmosphere created.  From its well worn, irregular floor to its ancient rusty barstools, from wood-backed and seated booths to mismatched tables and chairs, it wears its heritage on its surface.

That is, what surface can be seen.  After all, it seems every space on Molly's Diner's walls comes packed with aging, curling signage ranging from the historic ("Snooker 50 cents") to amusing (Arkansas State Bird, a Razorback with wings) to the risque (an eye chart that spells out TOO MUCH SEX CAN BE BAD FOR YOUR

SIGHT).  Indeed, no politically correct self-appointed policeperson has apparently come through the old building's doors in all its time standing two blocks from the brick-paved downtown square.

The clientele witnessed on our recent visit may have suggested or even brought in some of the posters and stickers that deck the walls within.  We were, after all, the youngest of those dining this particular afternoon.  I attribute that to the time of day (1:15 p.m.) more than to the local population.

Molly's Diner has been on my get-back-to list for three years now.  Mentioned in the pie book, the day job and work on the two subsequent tomes we've managed to get out have kept me from Bradley County's rolling hills.  The famed pies greatly represent our state's love for the pastry-clad filling-packed vessels we love so much.  

That wasn't why we came to Molly's this time.  We came to make sense of a wall full of suggestions (the food based ones, not the humorous or profane ones) and a menu packed with so many things, including a history of Bradley County.  Helpful.

Our waitress directed us to sit where we liked, and after attempting one seat particularly perched at an angle that had me almost fall over the back of my seat I moved around to the far side of the table I shared with photographer Grav Weldon this chilly February afternoon.  She asked if we were interested in one of the lunch specials, which included a Mexican plate (a crispito covered in chili and cheese, a taco, chips and dip and a small salad), country fried steak or beef tips with mashed potatoes, snap beans tossed salad and a roll -- or if we'd like to peruse the menu.  That's what we chose.

Said menu is full of its own cryptic glory, with suggestions of Mother's Chicken Salad Sandwich, 15 different burgers and a Suicide Po'Boy, in ham or chicken.  Wait, what?

"It's the owner's son's thing," our waitress told us.  "He came up with different sandwiches."

I noticed over her shoulder another description on the wall for Dylan's Suicide Sandwich, which included country fried steak, Swiss cheese, fried cheese sticks, onion ring, fries, mayo, lettuce and tomato.  It was next to a sign called the Redneck Sammich, advertised as a slice of fried bologna with grilled onions and mayo.  

Dylan's creation sounded like a Fat Darrell, a creation I learned of years ago while watching CBS Sunday Morning -- a combination of fried cheese sticks, chicken tenders and French fries created and often ordered by Darrell W. Butler, a student at Rutgers University for whom the sandwich was named.  This sounded like a challenge I should at least attempt.

Grav, on the other hand, eyed the 15 burgers on the menu and settled on a Double Beltbuster, a two-patty construction declared "really big" by our waitress.  After all, that'd take care of lunch and dinner, and maybe breakfast for us.

We relaxed and talked shop while our meals were prepared, as evidenced by views through the open window to the kitchen, over which a sign clearly stated Thru These Windows Pass The Greatest Food In The World.  A city policeman sat taking lunch with another local gentleman.  When they left, they were replaced with an octogenarian who quietly chatted across from his booth to a table behind us with two similarly aged ladies of good humor.

Under the old fashioned large-bulbed Christmas lights tacked to the restaurant's ceiling, time moved slowly.  It could have been 2015 or 1985, no matter.  For a few moments, as I sucked on tea and fiddled with the settings on my camera, I wondered if such galacial pacing would also affect service.

It did not.  It took about 10 minutes for our orders to arrive, and while we gleefully photographed the massive sandwiches, necks craned and eyes wandered over to our station as various folks voiced out loud their

curiosity over what we were doing.  We admitted our professions as writer and photographer and kept on, the ladies at the table behind us lightly cackling with a "that explains it."

The waitress had not been wrong.  Grav's burger appeared to be two ten ounce hand patted beef patties almost an inch

thick, glued together with cheese (which is optional) and completely overwhelming everything else on the bun.  It was lightly spiced and came bedecked with mustard and pickles on the bun along with the lettuce and tomato and onion ringlets, and as we shot away the bun started its light disintegration.

Mine took a moment to visually digest.  Yes, it appeared brown and fried.

The chicken fried steak patty was crisp, and the fries on the bottom pale yet slightly crunchy.  It took was quickly melting its bun.  Which meant once I grabbed a hold of it, I was set to grasp it between my fingers until I gave in.  Indeed, when I finally found myself filled to contentment and weary of pulling the long strands of mozzarella from the

sandwich, when I sat down the two thirds that was left, the imprints of my puffy paws were left behind as marks of the beast that tried to consume the monster.

I'm not sure I'd order it again.  It was hearty and made me feel naughty and had a good flavor, but so much food was betwixt those buns... and of such

a nature that would not reheat to the original satisfaction, that I would likely not choose this one again unless shared with a partner.  That partner, obviously, has to chose it over one of the 15 burgers on the menu.  

Oh, that menu's below, by the way.

I would be sincerely remiss if I did not mention Molly's Diner's marvelous fresh-fried potato chips.  I have, after all, been introduced with all sorts of house-fresh

housemade potato chips, from the extraordinary ones at EJ's Eats and Drinks in downtown Little Rock to... well, let's not ruin any appetites today.  Molly's does something all the others do not.  They fresh-fry the chips on order, and they're thick, fresh potato slices... so the insides are still French-fry smooth while the extra surface still gives the satisfying bite of a good potato chip. Seasoned only with salt, they were satisfying and simple.

Of course, the repast and prying eyes around checked our modesty, and we decided to forgo a slice from the handwritten menu of half a dozen pies.  They'll be there next time, though, and them pie will be mine.

The next time, though, we'll come for breakfast.  And it won't be three years.  Indeed, I believe we'll return in June, when the season's first tomatoes are celebrated at the world-renown Bradley County Pink Tomato Festival.  Until then, I shall dream of that homey, humble space and consider the possibilities of 14 other burgers, breakfast platters and the kinder and less profane suggestions on the walls.

Molly's Diner
201 South Myrtle
Warren, AR 71671
(870) 226-9913

What's The Best Diner In Arkansas?

MSN recently released a story listing what it considers to be the top diners in each state.  For Arkansas, it chose Lucy's.  Mind you, as far as sheer numbers, that'd be about right -- there are three Lucy's locations (Rogers, Fort Smith and Fayetteville).  And I do like Lucy's -- especially the Cheeseburger Omelet.  But I think there are other diners that should be considered for that honor.

Merriam-Webster defines a diner as a person who dines or as a restaurant car on a train, or a restaurant that appears to be in a train car.  If that were the definition, Lucy's doesn't even come close.  I believe the only places in Arkansas that would qualify would be the Boom-A-Rang Diner in Fort Smith (in an actual rail car in West End Park), Neighborhood Diner in Harrison, and Gail's Diner (in the old Starlite Diner location) in North Little Rock.

There are a lot of places that claim to be a diner in Arkansas.  For the purposes of this story, I'm going to limit it to places that serve a sit-down breakfast and coffee.  Most of these places will have a bar and stools for single diners.  Sadly, this means that places with diner in the name, such as Mama Max's Diner in Prescott, Bendi's Diner in Clarendon, Poppy's Diner in Lepanto or the esteemed Jones Barbecue Diner in Marianna, won't qualify.

Here are some of my suggestions.  Feel free to tell me what you think -- or share with me the places I've missed.

Benson's Grill.  The epitome of great Arkansas diners, this 24-hour joint on Rogers Avenue in Fort Smith serves up breakfast, lunch and coffee; features a long bar with orange seats; is well known for its sweet potato pancakes and will allow you to hold your seat while you slip away for a restroom break or a smoke.  Sassy waitresses, an epic patty melt and dang good plate lunch specials.  Benson's would be my number one choice for best diner in Arkansas.

Bellwood Diner.  Located on MacArthur Drive in North Little Rock, this ancient little shack seems to be a place time has forgotten, but it serves a steady breakfast and lunch every weekday.  Enjoy the crusty, homemade biscuits.

Bob and Ellie's.  This Fort Smith south side diner (another 24 hour joint) offers ridiculously cheap eats, including a mean hamburger steak and nicely done chicken fried steak.  The big breakfast is The Ultimate, a four-egg, three meat omelet for $10.

Broadway Railroad Cafe.  Open since 1920, this Prescott diner is located inside an old hotel that faces the railroad tracks.  Pancakes are thick.  The signature breakfast is The Boxcar, which includes hashbrowns, grits, two eggs, two strips of bacon and biscuit and gravy -- good, homemade gravy worthy of note.

Country Kitchen.  This old fashioned diner has been in operation in Pine Bluff since 1953.  Not much has changed since then, and you'll still find the wood paneling inside same as it ever was.

Dan's I-30 Diner.  Situated along Interstate 30 in Benton, this comfortable oversized diner offers breakfast all the time, very cheap.  The signature dish is the I-30 Flatliner -- an omelet full of ham, sausage, bacon, onions, bell peppers, mushrooms and cheese.

Dave and Ray's Downtown Diner.  Not far from the State Capitol complex, this cafeteria-style diner offer amazing cream gravy and biscuits along with made-to-order omelets during breakfast rush.

Frontier Diner.  Sitting along I-30 in southwest Little Rock, the classic wood-sided diner cures its own country-style ham and serves breakfast anytime it's open.

Gail's Diner.  The newest entry on our list, located inside the old Starlite Diner on MacArthur Drive in North Little Rock, offers pancakes and omelets and really amazing coffee.

Hillbilly Hideout.  The 24-hour restaurant inside the I-40 Travel Center in Ozark lets its customers choose from a booth, table or a seat at its unusual U-shaped counter.  Breakfasts are ample, and the pies are widely varied.

Home Plate Diner.  Out on Highway 5 in Bryant, the big star of the breakfast menu is the French toast, made from sliced cinnamon rolls.  Coffee is serve-yourself, with a variety of flavored creamers.

Jimmy's Diner.  The new place in Benton that feels like an old place in Benton, and the weekday offerings are pretty good.  Go on Saturday from five until eleven to experience a breakfast buffet that includes several types of meat, fried and scrambled eggs and even chocolate gravy.

Johnny B's.  A newer joint in an older location, this El Dorado mainstay offers amazing, huge waffles alongside great classic burgers, fries and plate lunches.

Kountry Kitchen.  A Waffle House-style set-up along US Highway 64 on the west side of Clarksville, this place offers pork chops, pancakes and a large breakfast burrito.

Lucy's Diner.  The only multi-location diner on the list, Lucy's 24-hour appeal lies in classics such as its cheeseburger omelet, scattered hashbrowns and a regular or rotating selection of pies.



Mel's Diner.  A little local joint in a Mountain Home strip mall, this is the place to fuel up with hot coffee and a biscuit before a day of fishing.

Molly's Diner.  Full of country class, Molly's brings the country to the Warren diner, which has achieve great Lower Arkansas fame.

Mom and Pop's Waffles.  Another Waffle House-style diner, this breakfast-special place just south of I-40 in Morrilton serves up gigantic tight-grid waffles with a choice of toppings, including locally-picked and preserved strawberries.

Neighborhood Diner.  The only diner on this list known to deliver, this Harrison joint (opened in 1952) offers the unique Smothered Spuds -- hashbrowns smothered with a plethora of items including ham, sausage, bacon, peppers, onions and cheese and a side -- gravy, toast or even a ribeye steak.

The Old South.  The last of the famed chain started by William Stell in the late 1940s, the Russellville location is still serving up strong coffee, perfectly cooked eggs and all the rest along US Highway 64.

The Ozark Cafe.  The second oldest continuously operated restaurant in the state makes the list since it does have breakfast, coffee and a counter to sit at.  The Ozark French toast with brown sugar and pecans is great, and chocolate gravy is served by the bowl-full with big, buttery biscuits.

The Pancake Shop.  Celebrating its 75th anniversary this year, the Central Avenue landmark in Hot Springs still brings in locals and racegoers for plate-sized pancakes, house-made sausage, big flat ham steaks and marvelous apple butter to a dining room that's changed little since 1940.

Parkview Restaurant.  Dating back to at least the 1930s, the longstanding Corning motel restaurant is still churning out made-to-order breakfasts and lunches for an ample crowd.

Shangri-La Restaurant.  The diner serving the resort along Lake Ouachita near Mt. Ida is a serious 1950s style classic, serving up great breakfasts, lunches, coffee and of course a mighty fine selection of pies.

65th Street Diner.  Unusual in that it closes between nine and eleven in the morning, breakfasts are hearty and lunches are large at this southwest Little Rock blue collar joint.

Skyline Cafe.  Mena's classic first opened in 1922, but was all but lost when a tornado decimated it on April 9, 2009.  Six months later, it returned and still serves up an amazing breakfast.  You have to try the homemade corned beef hash.

Stroud's Country Diner. The Mayflower tradition continues in the old yellow metal building on the north side of town. Hard to get in on the weekends but the wait is always worth it.

Sullivan's Diner.  Breakfasts in Benton, southern cooking for lunch... and Thai food?  Yes, the old corner diner in a neighborhood a few blocks east of Military Road does the classics with a side of Asian fusion.