A Barbecue Tour of Far South Alabama.

There are many places, people, even states that lay claim to great barbecue. I grew up between the forces of Memphis pork butt and Texas beef brisket, sometimes waved by the eddies of Kansas City and St. Louis. Arkansas’s own home-grown ‘cue’s descent into obscurity, that of the smoked goat, left behind only some of the famed sauces that once covered it (McClard’s and Craig Brothers’ comes to mind), coleslaw on the top and sometimes, the desire to serve one’s meat on white bread.

A Walk Through the Weeks Bay Pitcher Plant Bog.

Off the cuff, the remark "hey, let's go look at a bog!" when it's 89 degrees outside in southern Alabama may sound a little off. After all, aren't bogs what trolls hang out in? Few would be excited to spend their midmorning ankle deep in muck, right?

However, bogs are important eco-systems that often get overlooked. They're fragile, and even footprints can cause problems for plants who need the spongy, water-filled soil to grow.

The Weeks Bay Pitcher Plant Bog between Magnolia Springs and Fairhope, Alabama is meant to help preserve a unique area, part waterscape, part landscape, where carnivorous plants can grow.

A Stop at an Alabama Roadside Stand.

We've been on the road a few days now, trying out barbecue joints and checking out places to visit in southern Alabama.  On our way out of Mobile, we spotted a bright orange roadside stand in Wilmer that smelled really fantastic, so we stopped.  Here's what we discovered.

Road Eats - Gambino Brothers in Mobile, AL... Like Family.

There are many rules you should follow when you're dining out.  Some are practical (don't go to a restaurant after closing time and expect to be served), some are sadly humorous (always wash your hands after eating peppers), but some are just ironclad things you should know.  Three of those cardinal rules:  follow your nose, choose new things, and don't argue with the chef.

All three of those things apply at Gambino Brothers on the western side of Mobile, Alabama, along with a fourth -- when you can, dine with friends.

How to Start A Green Market, Right.

Fairhope, AL’s Windmill Market takes green to the extreme.


With the advent of the locavore movement, more farmers markets are springing up. Groups like our own Certified Arkansas Farmers Market are making sure that what comes from the field and ends up on your table is as organic and pure as possible.

But what about the physical structure of the farmers market experience? Need it be just simple pop-up tents and pickup truck beds?

Fairhope, AL has gone a step beyond. Opened in October 2009, the Windmill Market takes advantage of a facility vacated by a car dealership. Architects and owners Marc and Gina Walcott built into the existing structure and outfitted it with green ideas of all sorts. Today the market is home to Westside Grocery, which purchases all of its offerings from local farmers, fishermen and livestock producers. It’s also home to a great barbecue joint called Moe’s Original and to a four day a week arts and crafts market utilized by home and regional crafters.

It’s the building itself though that provides the most interest. With just $200,000 in pocket, the Walcotts retrofitted the 6600 square foot dealership into a LEED (Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design)-approved structure. Walcott Adams Verneuille Architects in Fairhope designed the project with the assistance of their green consulting firm Watershed.

The Walcotts wanted to go as green as possible with the project. They enlisted the help of Gulf Coast Green Power in bringing in the windmill that stands today not only to reduce the market’s draw on the power grid but which serves as a landmark to guide visitors to the market itself. It’s almost silent as it oscillates in the wind. The 45-foot towering windmill provides all the power the market needs -- and more. There’s even a jack available to power your electric car with windmill energy.

The building itself was reconstructed with use of recycled and repurposed materials to cut down on construction costs and waste. When it’s hot, a geothermal air conditioning unit cools the area. The roofline was extended out to create more shade, and solar panels reside above to collect even more energy. Low VOC paints were used for the interior. Skylights throughout reduce the need for lighting. Busted up parking lot asphalt was used for low walls around the garden.

Westside Grocery composts all vegetative matter collected at the Market. Rainwater is collected and used not only for the community garden available on site but to flush the low-water toilets in the restroom. The gardens themselves host a variety of great produce, herbs and flowers available to Fairhope visitors and natives.

It’s an interesting project that’s already grown. Not even two years old, Windmill Market has become a destination for eco-tourists who are looking for ideas to take home with them. Westside Grocery is now open seven days a week, taking in fresh produce, baked goods, eggs and meat to sell as well as providing a marketplace for local packaged goods such as pizza sauce from the popular Ravenite Pizzaria around the corner and locally combed honey. There’s always a packed house on market days, when local vendors come in and utilize booth space for a small fee.

Windmill Market has become part of the community, with evening concerts scheduled during the weekend and an open gathering space that draws folks together. It’ll be interesting to see if similar structures pop up in our market.

Hang Ten at The Hangout.

Looking for a great bite to eat right on the beach? You can’t go wrong with The Hangout. Located at Beach Boulevard and Gulf Shores Parkway (Alabama Highway 59), it’s easy to find and a lot of fun to boot.

But what is it that The Hangout has to offer? Frankly, good food, cool drinks and a nostalgia kick to boot. I had the chance to visit last week, and I thoroughly enjoyed myself.

The Hangout itself is an open air temple to beachside enjoyment, with glass-fronted garage doors to pull down in case of a storm. The center of the restaurant is an airy wide playground of tables and chairs, great for a group who’s not concerned with a lot of noise around them. There’s a well stocked bar here, too, and in the evenings there are periodic trivia games hosted by the staff.

Off the beach side there’s a nice step-down section full of more tables, high-stepped on one side so more people can take in the view. Nothing here between your eyes and that white sand.

The Hangout Hangover.

There are beverages to consume, like at any good beach party, and they include some great options. I was steered towards the Hang Ten, a mix of rum with banana and melon flavors, but I instead chose a Hangout Hangover ($7). The combination of Bacardi 151, blackberry brandy, raspberry liqueur, cranberry juice, pineapple and sours has the cumulative effect of giving you the sensation of being slapped with a blackberry. Nice, smooth, sweet and potentially dangerous if ordered repeatedly.

The Bushwacker.

Later I was talked into trying a Bushwacker ($7), which appeared on many menus in the area while I was down that way. And yes, I have to agree with the folks who brought me -- it is indeed the equivalent of an adult milkshake. Vanilla ice cream is blended with Kamora, rum and cocoa liqueur for something similar to but at the same time entirely unlike a concrete. Thick enough to pass the straw test, yet strong enough to cause blurred vision.

Shaka Shaka Shrimp.

Our group passed around a number of appetizers, giving me the chance to check out many things. Such as the Wild Frickles ($7.50), diagonally sliced Vlassic-style pickles battered and deep fried and served up with an avocado Ranch-style dressing. Very tart, but balanced well against the creaminess of the dip.

Spinach Artichoke Dip.

There’s also the Shaka Shaka Shrimp ($13), deep fried battered shrimp dipped in a spicy sauce. The shrimp are a little salty. The glaze is sweet, and the spice hits you late. I can see how someone could make a meal out of these.

The Spinach Artichoke Dip ($7.50) is pretty good, though very similar to the same dip I’ve had elsewhere. What makes it different is the chips, brightly colored red and green and yellow and very thin.

Tuna Dip.

Another dip, the Tuna Dip ($9.50) contains smoked tuna. It’s heavy on the pickles, but something about smoking the tuna has given the dip a very bacon-y sort of flavor. It’s a real hit, especially served up on those nicely roasted pita chips. A favorite.

Corn Crab Chowder.

I also tried the soup of the day ($4.50 cup, $7.50 bowl). I have to say, the Corn Crab Chowder was really good. It had the consistency of chicken and dumplings. It was thick with lots of corn and shredded crab, with bits of green onion and parsley. This would be a good soup to have right on the beach itself once night falls.

The Wipeout Burger with Hangout Spuds.

Now, being at the coast, you’d think all you really want to have is seafood. Well, there’s something on the menu at The Hangout you need to try, and that’s the burger. The place offers two -- the Hang Ten Burger ($9.50) and the Wipeout Burger ($13.50). The latter is just a two-patty version of the former.

The Wipeout Burger.

Hangout Spuds.

Each patty is half a pound served up on a toasted yellow bun, served up with lettuce, tomato, pickle and onion on the side. Ketchup and mustard squeeze bottles are already on the table; mayo or any other dressing comes by request. You can also get your burger with one of five cheeses (American, Swiss, Spicy Jack, Cheddar Cheese or Bleu Cheese Crumbles), mushrooms, fried jalapenos, applewood smoked bacon, or onion straws for a dollar more.

They’re served with Hangout Spuds, house-made thick sliced potato chips with a sweet-salty spice. It’s a big fat burger and it’s tasty.

Then there’s dessert. The one you’ll find on the menu is The Sand Pile ($6.50), the traditional brownie a la mode. The Hangout’s version is very rich, a very decadent thick brownie with nuts. There are also nuts served over the top of the sundae.

Fried Honeybun.

The one you won’t find but will have to ask for is the Fried Honeybun, a scary dessert that doesn’t even appear on the menu. It’s a honeybun fried in butter, then drizzled with chocolate sauce and served with a scoop of ice cream. It is so sweet, yet somehow so addictive. We’re talking Hostess-style honeybun… you could likely replicate the experience at home, but high-fat concentration desserts like this should be served with plenty of spoons and plenty of friends to share with -- a true “dare ya” sort of dessert.

The Hangout in the 50s.

The Hangout in the 60s.

The Hangout has long roots. Back in the 50s and 60s it was an open air hangout where kids could shoot the breeze, play pinball or arcade games, guzzle down nickel root beer and munch on quarter hamburgers. But it faded away. Two years ago, its new owners debuted this most recent incarnation.

Does it succeed? From the crowd I saw, yes. Though it was a Sunday night there were plenty of people on the beach out front when we arrived, and there was a good group when we left, sharing stories around a fire-lit area and listening to a young man and his guitar. Five young folks were playing hacky sack and one young man was dabbling in foam from the foam machine. The Hangout really does soak up its heritage and serve it well. I’m looking forward to my next visit.

You can find out more information on The Hangout's website.

The gift shop.

Beach Escape.

A weekend along Alabama’s Gulf Coast will clear your mind and get you right with your world again. Some places you need to check out:


Stay:



The Wharf. Want to stay and play in one location? If driving isn’t high on your priorities, you might consider a weekend or a week at The Wharf. This mixed use development along Wolf Bay isn’t just a place to go or a place to stay. It’s a place to play, swim, eat, golf, and shop. Rent a condo for two or twelve people in one of The Wharf’s high-rises. Shop for designer anything at the retail shops that line Main Street. Dine at one of the many restaurants, swim at The Oasis, an exclusive water park just for guests. Go hear a concert at the 10,000 seat amphitheater, or ride on the tallest Ferris wheel along the Gulf Coast.

Live Bait at The Wharf is a great place to dine while you’re there. An extraordinarily seafood-heavy menu is paired with a sushi bar of all things. The Seafood Nachos are legendary; or go for decadent and share a Steamed Seafood Platter with a friend (or don’t share and enjoy it all yourself!).

The Wharf * 4550 Main Drive in Orange Beach * thewharfal.com


The Beach Club. Upscale and luxurious, this kicked back oasis along the Gulf of Mexico has its own private beach, a wide variety of accommodations and several on-site restaurants that serve up a variety of foods. Don’t want sand in your shoes from the beach? There are five outdoor pools and an indoor one, too, along with hot tubs and cabanas. A full service spa, tennis courts, clubhouse and more can make wanting to leave pretty tough.

The Beach Club * Beach Club Trail in Gulf Shores * beachclubal.com



Beach Houses. Not the pampered sort? If you want to enjoy the breezes off the Gulf from the privacy of your own beach house, you’re in luck. Kaiser Realty offers beach house and condominium rentals all along Orange Beach and Gulf Shores. Take the family or your friends and enjoy a place all to your own. Amenities such as beach and pool access, large kitchens, group-style accommodations and more are available. Check them out.

Kaiser Realty * 1557 Gulf Shores Parkway * kaiserrealty.com


Learn:


Sailaway Charters. Join Captain Skip on a tour of Wolf Bay and its estuaries and learn all about shrimping, crabbing and oyster harvesting. His boat trips into the bay feature a hands on close-up look at native birds, fish, oysters and other wildlife. If you’re lucky, Skip’s dolphin friend Mr. Friendly might come up alongside the boat for a visit. A must-do activity, especially for families.


Sailaway Charters * 24231 Gulf Bay Road * sailorskip.com






Fort Morgan. I’m sure you’ve heard the phrase “Damn the torpedoes, full speed ahead!” The phrase comes from the Battle of Mobile (date cite). Fort Morgan is one of three forts in the area (Fort Gaines on Dauphin Island and the recreated Fort Conde in Mobile) and by far the largest.

Military buffs will enjoy the museum and its comprehensive information about the Fort’s service since its 1834 construction -- with photographs and exhibits from the fort’s service in the Civil War and onwards.

Kids will get a kick out of being able to crawl all over a living, breathing piece of American history.


Fort Morgan * 110 Highway 180 West
* http://www.nps.gov/nr/twhp/
wwwlps/lessons/73morgan/73morgan.htm



Blow it up. Does art fascinate you? The Orange Beach Art Center isn’t just a place to look at art, it’s a place to create it. Featuring Alabama’s only public access glass studio, the Center hosts all sorts of hands-on classes and demonstrations that will fit any budget. If you’ve ever been interested in glassblowing, this is the place to get your gear on and create your own 2200 degree art.


Orange Beach Art Center * 26389 Canal Road * orangebeachartcenter.com




Romantic getaway. Pack a picnic basket (you can pick up supplies at Bruno‘s or Publix, two of the local grocery stores) and head to Bon Secour National Wildlife Refuge. Take the Pine Beach trail out to a secluded and remote section of beach where no one will bother you but the gulls (and other hikers). It’s a hearty two mile walk that takes you through lush pine forest and swampland, past 40 acre Gator Lake and over sand dunes right down to the beach. Watch for birds such as the Yellow-Rumpled Warbler and the Red-Eyed Visio, and stick to the beach area trails -- this is a nesting area for the Snowy Plover.


Bon Secour National Wildlife Refuge * Highway 180 West of Gulf Shores * www.fws.gov/bonsecour


Dine:

Alabamans love their Royal Red shrimp, and one of the best places to find them is at a little place called King Neptune’s. Al and Diane Sawyer’s place may not look like much from the outside, but the eatery often has a line out the door full of hungry patrons looking for good, reasonably priced seafood. Royal Reds come by the half-pound or pound. Other great Gulf Coast specialties can be found here, such as West Indies Salad, fried crab claws and a variety of broiled and fried seafood platters. If you skip the Fried Cheesecake, you’re doing yourself a disservice, best fried cheesecake I’ve ever had. But if you want to share with a small army, go for the bread pudding. It’s huge.

King Neptune’s * 1137 Gulf Shores Parkway * kingneptuneseafoodrestaurant.com


A destination all its own, especially for Parrotheads: Lulu’s at Homeport Marina is one of those great places where you can have a Cheeseburger in Paradise, walk barefoot in the sand, tie up your boat for a while and do a little bit of nothing.

It’s run by Lucy Anne Buffett, the effervescent sister of Jimmy, who‘s likely to be passing through when you drop by. The restaurant itself is huge (I was told they’ve seated up to 3000 people at once) and the living is easy. There are sand and play areas for the kids, beach chairs and tunes for the adults, and a sandwich heavy menu for all.

Try the Mahi Tacos, and if you don’t get a Big Blue Shark Margarita, it could be your fault.

Lulu’s at the Homeport * 200 East 25th Avenue in Gulf Shores * lulusathomeport.com






Looking for a tasty yet unusual dining experience? Cosmo’s is where you should land. Yes, there are a lot of the traditional Gulf Coast specialties on hand. But you’re going to want to try some of the more unusual items. Such as rolls from the on-duty sushi chef, who comes up with such items as the Duck Roll (smoked duck, red bell peppers, green pepper jelly and cream cheese).

The banana-wrapped fish is decadent, and the cheese dip is unlike any cheese dip you’ve ever had.

Cosmo’s * 25753 Canal in Orange Beach * cosmosrestaurantandbar.com






Best place to be a beach bum? Try The Hangout at Beach Boulevard and Alabama Highway 59. This revived 50’s and 60’s style restaurant firmly grasps its beach bum heritage with plenty of cold drinks, hot food and fun activities. Add in a courtyard full of fun activities, live music, shopping and a nice stretch of Gulf Coast beach, and you have yourself a dining destination. The Wipeout Burger, if you dare try it, is the quintessential Alabama beach burger.

The Hangout * 101 East Beach Blvd. * thehangoutal.com