Thursday, October 13, 2011

Burger joint of the week: Dairy Shack in Waldenburg.

Have you ever been unsure of where exactly you are? Yeah, this happened to me last week. I knew I was in Waldenburg — I mean, I was at the crossroads of Highways 14 and 49, on a plot that used to be the place to stop for barbecue from a trailer when I used to make the weekly run from Jonesboro to Little Rock and back in the 90s. And the GPS said I’d ended up at Josie’s Restaurant. But the place was marked with several signs, and the entrance that was open was catty-corner under a big sign that said D-Shack.

Bill Lawson had sent me the recommendation after I’d posted a request for such on my way to northeast Arkansas. I’d pulled up at the restaurant, checked my messages and yeah, there it was. The sign to the right said Josie’s, but the door was on the left.

I went in and ordered a
cheeseburger and fries. Turns out, unlike most places, there’s no default on the burger settings. What I mean to say is, if you order a burger you have to tell them exactly what you want on it. The sweet girl who took my order asked if lettuce, tomato and mayo were okay. Sounded fine to me. I got my tea from a milk jug on the counter.

I had a seat in the small dining room area next to a door that had “Josie’s” written on it. I looked up the place on my phone. I was at the right address. I was confused. I thought this was supposed to be a steakhouse?

There were a couple of guys talking about riding motorbikes on the weekend, seated at different tables and talking across half the room. I’d forgotten how the dialect sounded in the area — with the flat As and elongated Es from time to time. It does sound different from one corner of our state to the other.

The burger (a cheeseburger is $3.49) was juicy — I could tell from the little grease spots forming on the paper under the burger. I opened it up and took my photos. Of course, being a Dairy Shack, it had American cheese on it, also the shredded iceberg lettuce and tomato slices that had been ordered
with it. The seedless untoasted bun was fresh and pasted to the top of the patty with the cheese.

The burger patty itself made all the difference. Juicy — I mean, yes, there was some griddle grease there, but it was juicy even though it was cooked through. There were salt and pepper hints to it but otherwise here was a fine example of a decently done burger with fresh meat and fresh ingredients. Yay. The char was even substantial but not overdone.

Wish I could have justified getting a milkshake. I mean, after all, a Dairy Shack should have great milkshakes. However, I was on the quest for pie again and had seven other stops to make that day. No, I’m not kidding about that.

Dairy Shack also does a plethora of other things. There’s a daily lunch special for $4.99, a meat-and-two-veg special that sometimes changes and sometimes doesn’t, which features things like a chopped steak, fried chicken or chopped pork barbecue. In fact, the place smelled like barbecue when I pulled up. There’s items like locally farm raised catfish on the menu, as well as tilapia and shrimp. Barbecue sandwiches start at a buck 90, and there are nine different flavors of milkshake — including peanut butter, pineapple, butterscotch and cherry.

But the identity thing? Appears Dairy Shack and Josie’s share space at 7964 Highway 49, but they have different phone numbers. I would suspect Josie’s is an evening thing. I’ll have to go try a steak — I’ve heard they’re scrumptious. The number for Dairy Shack is (870) 579-2214.



Dairy Shack Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

Wednesday, October 12, 2011

The 2011 Arkansas State Fair Food Preview.

Want to know what's being served up at this year's Arkansas State Fair?  I tried a bunch of the items that will be for sale at a special media preview -- which allows me to be able to tell you about all these crazy foods, and to remind you of other foods we talked about in the past that will be making a comeback this year.

Fried Bacon Cream Cheese Balls.  These are tempura battered savory bombs of goodness that should see a lot of popularity with fair goers.  Like their cousin the Bacon Cream Cheese Bomb (also sold at Hot Wisconsin Cheese) they’re cream cheese that has been infused with pieces of bacon, but the smaller portions will encourage sharing.

Beef Brisket Sandwiches.  The Ormics are bringing serious meat to the fair, and this is one of many examples.  The well-flavored smoked beef brisket sandwich is a handful of meaty goodness that you can have with barbecue sauce or without.  A two-hander.  You’ll find the Ormics on the northwest corner of the big Food Court intersection.

Beer Butt Chicken.  The best thing to have at the fair quadrupled with a Coke, but grilled and not deep fried. (Sorry, I felt the need to make a Blues Brothers reference there).  Back from last year.

Fried Butter.  Okay, here’s another idea from other fairs that has arrived in Arkansas somewhat adulterated.  Yes, it’s fried butter -- but instead of being a sweet butter like the cherry butter and cinnamon honey sugar butter at the Texas State Fair, this is literally a stick of butter that’s been battered like a corndog and deep fried (these are half-size versions for the preview).  What you get is a half-melted stick of butter in the middle of a mass of cornmeal -- or, you could look at it as a big piece of cornbread on a stick with the butter in the middle.  You’ll find it at CM Steakhouse next to the Hall of Industry.

Cabritas Wraps.  Yes, they’re back.  These scrumptious tortillas full of shredded goat meat are one of the healthiest foods of the Arkansas State Fair.  The goat is roasted rather than deep fried, and goat is typically lower in fat than other meat on the hoof.   Find it at the Feed Trough back down by the Rabbit Barn.

Fried Cheese.  Boy, you can find fried cheese a lot of places, but you can’t find it done in any more combinations than what you’ll find at Hot Wisconsin Cheese.  This year the stand is on the Gate 5 side entrance of the Food Court, and there will likely be a line.  Among the many options available are Cheddar, Swiss, Mozzarella and Jalapeno Cheese.  The Jalapeno Cheese is a white cheese with embedded peppers that has a late and strong heat to it.

Cheeseburger on a Stick.  Yes, that's cheese within ground beef within a corndog.  Yes, it's good.  Dip it in ketchup and be happy.

Chicken and Beef Kebabs.  You can’t get more meaty than meat, right?  The Ormics are cooking up nicely spiced Chicken Kebabs and Beef Kebabs at their stand inside the Food Court.  You’ll smell and hear the sizzling meat from a distance.  These folks use their own spices to offer a great meat-on-a-stick experience.

Chocolate Cream Cheese Bites.  Decadently rich, this is definitely something to share with the chocolate lovers in your life.  They're back for a second round at Hot Wisconsin Cheese.

Chocolate Funnel Cake Sundae.  It actually has another name, I think -- but I kept trying to write it down and it kept getting garbled.  In essence, this is a sundae made with a chocolate funnel cake as its base with strawberries on top.  And it is very, very good.

Corndogs.  You can get them a lot of different places, but really, the best ones come from Superdog.  End of story.

Deep Fried Corn-on-the-Cob.  My photographer’s favorite dish, it’s a big long cob of corn given the corndog treatment.  It’s a good combination.  The one complaint -- it’s so big and heavy (we’re talking a two pound dish) that it might fill you up before you can get to the other fair food out on the Midway.

Deep Fried Egg on a Stick.  Yes, those hard boiled eggs treated like weiners getting the corndog treatment are back again thanks to the folks at Hot Wisconsin Cheese.

Deep Fried Egg Rolls.  In my opinion, the breakout neat new and tasty fair food at the Arkansas State Fair.  They are meatless egg rolls packed with cabbage and carrots tempura battered and deep fried and served up with sauce.  Somehow, the battering process makes these egg rolls less greasy than their non-battered average counterparts at Asian restaurants.  A real winner.  You’ll find them at Sissy’s next to Paizi’s in the Food Court.

Funny Bones.  They’re just a funny name for something else -- chocolate peanut butter injected deep fried Twinkies.  As if a fried Twinkie wasn’t sweet enough.  Seriously, though, the on-a-stick creation from the folks at Fried What? is a cross between a deep fried Twinkie and a deep fried Reeces Peanut Butter Cup.  Where’s the milk?  You’ll find Fried What? next to the Pineapple Whip people by the Wendy’s Main Stage.

Fried Gator.  You know, it kinda tastes like chicken -- but it doesn’t.  Sissy’s is putting out fried gator on a stick for you to try at this year’s fair, and if you haven’t had it before it’s not a bad deal.  The gator benefits from the battering and deep frying process, somehow coming out juicier than with other applications elsewhere.

Fried Green Tomatoes.  Yes, they’re back this year, same as last year at Sissy’s on the Food Court.

Gyros.  We’ve talked about Paizi’s before; for Central Arkansas, here’s your chance to enjoy great gyros, chicken pitas and vegetable pitas in the Food Court.  Paizi’s has a magnificent tzatziki sauce and won’t hesitate to throw on some extra onions or lettuce for you.  Another healthy fair option.

Hot Beef Sundae.  We last caught up with these folks at the Arkansas Oklahoma State Fair.  Enjoy a "sundae" made from a bases of sliced roast beef, a scoop of mashed potatoes, a drizzle of gravy, cheese "sprinkles" and a cherry tomato, at the stand right next to the restrooms across from the Center Stage Grill.

Hubcap Burgers and Hubcap Chicken Sandwiches.  These are massive one pound burgers and sandwiches that will feed a crowd -- or one very hungry fairgoer.  A mainstay of the Arkansas State Fair, you can have yours topped with any of the traditional toppings such as lettuce, tomatoes, onions or pickles -- or add on cheese, jalapenos or chili.  In the Big Show Diner.  And yes, they still have the Hubcap Steak Sandwich, too.

Jalapeno Lemonade.  Well, it’s something else.  The folks at Fried What? have combined the thirst-quenching beverage with one thing that makes most people reach for liquid refreshment.  There’s not a lot of jalapeno flavor on the outset -- but within a moment of your first gulp you’ll feel the whiskey burn at the back of your throat.

Fried Kool-Aid.  Okay.  I had the Kool-Aid Balls at the State Fair of Texas, which was a similar idea, taking Kool-Aid and deep frying it.  But in Dallas, it’s infused into funnel cake batter that’s fried up and then dusted with powdered sugar.  There’s a different consistency to what the folks at Fried What? are doing.  Somehow their version comes out harder and much stronger in flavor, rendering these powerful little bombs with flavor with what you might get if you deep fried Pop Rocks (and if you’re thinking about that, then please, don’t).  I’d suggest skipping these and getting a Funny Bone instead.

Moink Balls.  These are beef meatballs wrapped in bacon that are then dipped in barbecue sauce or rub.

Pecans.  The folks at Ozark Candy and Nuts will be set up inside the Hall of Industry this year, hot roasting and candy-fying pecans on the spot.  These smell heavenly; the praline pecans are lovely and sweet and totally addictive.  The cinnamon pecans are pretty tasty, too.

Pepperoni Pizza Puffs.  Another returning champion from last year from the folks at Sissy’s, these are sections of pizza dough with mozzarella cheese, pepperoni and a little marinara sauce rolled up and deep fried.  Nice and satisfying.

Fried Pickles.  The origin of the fried pickle traces back to a little restaurant (that no longer exists) in Atkins, AR -- which used to be Pickle Central.  Atkins doesn’t have the Atkins Pickle Plant any more, but fried pickles are ingrained in Arkansas culinary tradition, and you’ll find several versions available -- at Fried What? at Sissy’s, at The Big Show Diner and who knows where else.  Spears, chips or chunks, if you want a tart treat you can’t go wrong here.  Most are served with Ranch dressing.

Fried Pies.  The folks from That Place in West Fork, AR are serving up those great Letha’s Pies, great fried pies in flavors like coconut cream, apple, peach, pecan and cherry.  I particularly like the pecan pie -- which has a perfect crust and plenty of meaty pecans in a delicious and sweet custardy syrup.  The coconut cream is delightfully creamy.

Pig Lickers.  They just won't go away -- though last year they were just $1 for a chocolate-coated bacon strip, not a bad price to try out something that decadent.

Pineapple Whips.  But of course -- one of our favorites.

Pizza.  Yes, indeed -- you can get a whole pizza at the Arkansas State Fair from the folks at Leimon's Pizza.  The tradition of pizza at the fair goes back to the 1970s and is continued on today.  Get a whole pie and share it for a better bargain, or just get a big fat slice right in the Food Court.

Rabbit Sandwiches.  Last year the folks at the Feed Trough offered up BBQ Rabbit Sandwiches.  This year they’re offering up the rabbit and you can choose whether or not you want the barbecue sauce.  It’s good, savory rabbit and really doesn’t need that much sauce.  You’ll find the Feed Trough in the yellow trailer over by the Rabbit Barn.

Reuben Sandwiches.  An Arkansas staple, it’s a popular treat at the fair.  No one really knows for certain why natives dig the corned beef and sauerkraut sandwich to the point where it’s almost everywhere -- but for certain it’s at our celebration on the fairgrounds.  You'll find yours at Pat's Kitchen in the Food Court.

Deep Fried Rolos.  From the same folks that brought us Chocolate Smooches last year (which of course will be available this year as well) here come battered and deep fried Rolos.  The deep frying process makes the caramel soft and a little runny -- which is just about perfect.  Share a bunch with your friends.

Sassy's Awesome Blossom.  Yes, it's a mostly-sliced-through onion battered and deep fried.  Yes, you can get one at Outback Steakhouse or Chili's or 12 other big chain restaurants.  But isn't it fun to attempt to juggle one while sharing with friends on the Midway?

Deep Fried S’Mores.  It’s exactly what you think it is -- a marshmallow and chocolate bar pieces pressed between graham crackers, battered and deep fried.  It’s a pretty big concoction but it has a very good and sweet flavor.  You’ll find it at Fried What?

Southern Fried Chicken on a Stick.  Another item that might have another name -- it’s a couple of sections of chicken breast meat with a couple of peppers and onions for good measure.  At last, something battered and deep fried that was meant to be battered and deep fried!

Steak Boats.  Not featured at the fair preview (hence, no photo), this is a boat constructed of steak full of potatoes.  Or a potato full of steak.  Hey, I'll let you know.

Spanish Candy.  It’s an unusual option, but these sweet-tart European candies are available from Sweet and Sour USA in the Hall of Industry.  Several flavors are available, including sour watermelon, sweet watermelon, bubble gum, strawberry, sour apple and more.  Bright and cheerful and easy to take home with you.

Tater Dog.  You'll find it at the Texas Tater Twister trailer, across from the Center Stage Pavilion.

Tater Twisters.  Ever popular, it’s a spiral cut potato thrown into the deep fryer and then sprinkled with salt.  You can even get yours covered in nacho cheese sauce.  The folks at Grater Tater on the Food Court can set you up (while also offering you a Fried Snickers Bar).

Walking Taco. Introduced at the 2009 Arkansas State Fair, the popularity of the item has grown enough for it to be introduced at the State Fair of Texas this year.

Deep Fried Watermelon.  The version at the State Fair of Texas didn’t impress me.  This one from the folks at CM Steakhouse outside the front door of the Hall of Industry does a better job.  For one, you can actually tell it’s watermelon inside.  It’s a substantial chunk of watermelon, dipped in a flour based batter and deep fried.  And somehow, it retains most of the juice.  It was not offensive, though I’m not sure it’s what I’d normally order as far as fair food goes.  These guys also serve up Grilled Watermelon on a Stick, for those watching their fried food intake.

Wings.  The Silver Bullet Saloon and Cafe is your place to pick up lots of different chicken wings -- large juicy chicken wing sections in a variety of flavors.  I found the Chili Sweet Wings to be pretty darn good.  The Golden Garlic was my favorite.  There are also Sweet BBQ and Teriyaki Wings.  But the one to watch out for are Nuclear Wings, wings so hot they might make you cry.

No word on whether the Elvis Sandwich, Giant Cream Puffs or Battered and Deep Fried Bacon will return.

Monday, October 10, 2011

Scenes from an Italian Restaurant - Lazzari Italian Kitchen in Jonesboro.

Lazzari’s Italian Oven (sometimes Lazzari’s Italian Kitchen or Lazzari's Italian Restaurant) is one of my favorite restaurants anywhere.  That’s saying something, ya think?  There are reasons for this that go far deeper than the food.

Friday, October 7, 2011

Pieday: Caramel Apple Nut at Mama Max's

I love home cooking. I really can’t get enough of it. I don’t mean greasy home fries and some thrown together stuff that some restaurants call home cooking. I’m talking about the sort of food your mamma would cook for ya if she had the time and she really loved you. The sort of food I can recall from childhood, everyday stuff we’d have whenever, usually heavy on vegetables and light on meat.

Done had a meal like that at Mama Max’s in Prescott — and the best part was, I also got a great dessert. Can’t beat that with a stick.


My photographer and I stopped in on our way to the Texas State Fair last week. I have been meaning to make it to Momma Max’s for a while but was always either too early or on the wrong day. This particular Wednesday we were in luck. The place was bustling and it had just started serving lunch.

It took us a little while to decide on our lunches. I had originally intended to check out the highly recommended burgers, but once I saw the list of vegetables (which is the first thing on the menu) I changed my mind.

The list was extensive — mustard and turnip greens, pinto beans, PurpleHull peas, lima beans, beets, candied yams, fried okra, potato salad, cole slaw, mac & cheese, fresh fried corn, green beans and mashed potatoes. Yeah. It made my pescatarian photographer happy, too — knowing he could get some good eats.

He chose himself a vegetable plate ($1.50 a vegetable), picking up some of those PurpleHull Peas, the macaroni and cheese and some fried corn nuggets (located under appetizers). He told me the corn nuggets were some of the best he’s had, nice and corn packed and buttery. He also bragged on the macaroni and cheese, which was made with elbow macaroni and Cheddar cheese. Yes, it looked like hell since Cheddar doesn’t melt as well as other cheeses. But it was good stuff.


I’d been talked into some cornbread to go along with my Chicken & Dumplings ($7.50), a big bowl of dumplings and shredded chicken with two sides. Of course I went for the PurpleHull Peas, and some Lima Beans too. I knew with the fair challenge coming up I would need all the energy I could muster.

The Chicken & Dumplings were good — a little undersalted, maybe, but the dumplings were nice and firm and the chicken had a lovely flavor to it. There was a low broth-to-dumpling ratio, too — more like an entrée than a soup.

I dug my peas and beans, though. The PurpleHulls had just a hint of liquid smoke flavor to them, just enough to enhance the little sweetness to them.
The Lima Beans were excellent — buttery, sweet and falling apart.

And that cornbread…

I hadn’t eaten corn in weeks, and was happy to discover the cornmeal didn’t set off a reaction. The cornbread is very buttery, moist and hardly sweet at all. It was perfect
crumbled up in the peas and beans, a sopping cornbread.

Of course, I haven’t even touched on the pies yet. There’s a pie case when you walk in that, depending on the time of day and the day of the week, will be anywhere from half to completely full of pies and cakes and whatnot. Pies are $3 a slice, cakes $2.50 and the homemade turtles $2. I passed up a chance on a very tall, very rich looking chocolate cake for pie.


My photographer chose the lemon icebox pie, which was homogenously smooth and sweet with just the right amount of tartness.

My Caramel Apple Nut pie, though… now there’s you a pie. A prime Southern pie filled with heat-softened chunks of pecans in-between the two different types of slow-cooked apples. The crust was nice and savory, a salted top and bottom flaky crust that soaked up the apple essence quite well.

What made it over the top good, though, was the drizzle of melted caramel over the top. That burnt sugar flavor was just the right thing to balance the tart apples and meaty pecans. That dang pie ate like a meal, and I was already about stuffed.

But I ate it. I ate it all, even though it hurt. It was too good to leave.

The whole meal was less than $20, and we weren’t even hungry for about eight hours. It stuck with us. I do have to say, one of the diners at the next table over ordered a barbecue sandwich while we were in there, and I am going to have to go back for that. Oh, it smelled divine.

You’ll find Mama Max’s at 1102 West Main Street in Prescott — that’s Highway 24. If you take the first Prescott exit from I-40 heading south (the one with the Low’s Truck Stop) it’s a short jaunt down on the left. It’s open Wednesday through Saturday 10 a.m. to 8 p.m. and Sunday 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. They do carry-out, too. (870) 887-5005.


Mama Max's Diner Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato