I have been accused of having no love for an Arkansas standard, one delicacy that is apparently above reproach here in our Natural State. I have been accused of not loving the Cotham’s Hubcap Burger.
I’m not really sure where this comes from. Perhaps it has something to do with the fact that I’ve been seeing other burgers. Yes, dear friends and readers, I have dallied with other burgers both large and small, sampled the spicing, poked at the buns and made note of whatever’s piled on. Cotham’s is not the be-all and end-all of my burger knowledge.
But to say I don’t like the burger? Now, that’s going way too far.
I do like the Hubcap. There. It’s been said. I have even on occasion managed to take down an entire bun-clad plate-filling meat sammy before (though I did leave the fries). It is a decent and respectable though large offering to the meat-and-bread crowd.
But there’s also something that bothers me about ordering a Hubcap. That is, the more Hiubcaps I order, the greater the possibility that my butt will obtain Volkswagen proportions. And I was taught growing up that you shouldn’t order more than you can eat, there are starving kids in Ethiopia (and sober kids in India, though I digress).
I do wish I could add that same sort of wistfulness to thoughts of the Cotham’s Fried Green Tomatoes… but I can’t. I’m so sorry. Fried Green Tomatoes are a seasonal thing with me, quarter inch thick rounds dusted first in flour then egg then cornmeal and pepper and set to fry up in small batches on the back of the stove.
Unfortunately, the fried green tomatoes I have encountered at Cotham’s have been thin, on the greasy side and lacking the firmness I do so love that you can’t get from a full-term ‘mater. Though… serving them up with Ranch dressing does at least make them acceptable.
There are other options for sides at Cotham's in the City - such as the marvelous onion rings and the chip-style fried pickles. Fries are thick and straight and not dolled up with batter or spice, they’re just fries, like they should be. Corn fritters are sweet, not really hush puppies but something almost juicy and fun. There's fried okra, sweet potato fries, mashed potatoes and gravy, coleslaw and green beans and even some sides offered by the day, like turnip greens on Thursdays.
Beware - fried jalapenos are also available, as a side or on their own. They're downright dangerous.
And did you know you can get a daily plate lunch special at Cotham’s in the City? Yeah, for $6.99 they offer meat and two veg during the week. On Tuesdays it's chicken and dumplings, made from scratch.
On Wednesdays, it's chicken fried steak. Monday is catfish, Thursday is fried chicken and Friday is fried pork chops.
And the desserts? Well, you could go about sharing a gigantic slice of Mississippi Mud pie with your dining companions - or savor a fried pie for yourself. I suggest the latter - in this case, a chocolate fried pie with whipped cream. Delectable.
But if you don’t care to venture out into the wilderness, a reasonable facimile’s in the shadow of the State Capitol at Third and Woodlane. Lunch only.
The bonus? The walls are covered with the political memorabilia of dozens and dozens of campaigns, with no regards to political affiliation. Its interior is a veritable museum to such.
P.S. One more thing. I’ve been taking flack lately from a couple of folks who have chided me about my insistence that the Ed Walker’s Giant Cheeseburger (a single five pound meat patty) is the state’s largest burger, pointing to Man vs. Food’s Adam whats-his-name’s attempt to eat a Quadruple Hubcap Burger on TV as proof that Cotham’s has the bigger burger. Well, hrm. For one, the Ed Walker’s Giant Cheeseburger is one big old patty.
P.P.S. Cotham's has a website, if you wanna take a look.
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