Fair competition.

Mornings at the Arkansas State Fair are mostly quiet. Sure, the early morning news programs all send out their crews to celebrate different aspects of Fair life, but by 9:30am the crews have cleared out and gone back to their respective stations. Instead, what you see across the Fairgrounds are vendors preparing
to open, exhibitors working with their animals, and FFA kids working.

And then there are the smattering of a different sort of competitor -- the food competition competitors.

This particular Tuesday morning, I was joining them for my first foray into such a competition. I have competed before in chili cookoffs, and at the Fair as a photography entrant, but I've never engaged in the competition against other cooks.

The competition this day was the Farm Bureau's Rice Cookoff. Each year, the Farm Bureau celebrates the popular Arkansas staple by inviting one and all to compete to see who can come up with the best main dish, salad, and dessert -- and awards prizes in each area. Unlike the categories sponsored by the Fair itself, in this competition all ages compete together. For some, it's a family affair.

I arrived on-site with my traveling companion and my entry. Because I didn't register in advance by mail or on-line, I had to fill out an entry form at the counter. That, plus my $5 entry fee and a copy of my recipe on the appropriate form was all I needed to enter the arena inside the Arts & Crafts Building and set up my entry.

The Farm Bureau's contest provides an area with covered tables for the exhibition, along with sample plates and utensils for the judges. Entrants are required to bring their own presentation dishes, presentation materials, and serving utensils. Each entrant is given the chance to choose where they'd like to set up and are allowed an area 12"x18" in size for their display.

I took my box of materials to the prep area in the back. While participants are allowed to re-heat entries, all actual cooking must be done off-site. Dishes have to be ready to eat. I carefully unpacked my gear and display equipment and gently ladled my entry into the display bowl I had brought. This took a bit of time, but taking time was well worth it.

My entry this year was kheer, a type of rice pudding from India that includes rosewater, sugar, cashews and raisins. I made it the night before and allowed it to chill before re-heating it in the morning. The confection is sweet but not overly sweet and is often served as a closing course at Indian restaurants. My version uses rosewater but not vermicelli, which I see in most commercial preparations.

The judging for these entries are based on taste (30%), appearance (25%), originality of the recipe (25%m and on ease of Preparation (20%). By setting up the criteria in advance, entrants have a better idea of what might work and what might not work.

As the competitors put together their entries, a facilitator kept us aware of the time, counting down what time we had left for setup. I put what I thought would be the crowning garnish on my entry and carefully carried my bowl to where my display had been set up.

Somehow or another, my raisins decided to sink, so I went back for more. I noticed others had very elaborate displays -- but my simple dish just got the simple treatment of a folded tablecloth in a complimentary color. I added a couple of serving spoons and called it good, making sure my entry slip and recipe were visible and ready for the judges.

As I went to leave the ring, I noticed some of the entrants also taking pictures of their entries and of other entries that looked intriguing. I was glad for this -- I had felt a little weird taking my camera with me, and it was good to know that I wasn't doing anything strange.

A short time later, the judges were announced, and the ring was closed for judging. All of the participants were expected to stay the full length of time for the judging, and that was okay, too. A demonstrator from the Pampered Chef started to show how to make a dish in the kitchen at the end of the hall, and many of the participants went there to watch. Others took the time to peruse the hall, looking over the entries in the other contests and talking among themselves.

The facilitators worked quickly and quietly to make sure the judges had all they needed. Some made sure there were six plates and utensils set by each of the entries for the six judges. Others kept up with the judges and made sure they had water at all times. Still others checked the forms to make sure they had everything needed for registration.

The judges themselves each seemed to have a method of going about things. Rather than all starting on one side and going to the other, they carefully checked the numbers on their sheets and appeared to go through the entries at random. This meant that no judge had to wait on another to finish judging, and I think that was a rather good idea.

Many of the entrants used the space at the available tables around the ring. Some read, others worked on their computers, still more socialized with other entrants and compared notes.

As a first time entrant, I was pleasantly surprised by the joviality of it all. This wasn't one of those at-your-throat competitions like you see on Food Network. These people were all glad to be here, and I received a lot of feedback from others who have been competing for years.

My traveling companion pointed something out to me, and I watched. As the judges would come to my entry, they would briefly look over the recipe and place a small amount of the dish on their plate. Then they'd try it -- and every one of them, every one -- quickly glanced back at the recipe. I wonder if they were trying to figure out what made the entry taste so different. Almost all of them nodded a moment later -- apparently as they recognized the rosewater, an unusual ingredient in this part of the world to be sure!

We did get a little kick out of one of the entries -- as each judge tried to pry apart something that looked like a Cocoa Krispy cake with the little plastic forks provided by the facilitators. This again is a big reason why it's important to bring your own appropriate serving utensils. The judges shouldn't have to struggle to get through your entry!

The top recipes in the rice cookoff and other competitions at the Fair are made available each year in a special cookbook put out after the Fair. You'll have a chance to purchase yours soon -- watch the Arkansas State Fair website for that chance.

Each of the judges has a set of sheets for scoring. They're set up in a grid. The number of each entry is listed along the vertical column, and across the top there are columns for each of the four criteria. This makes it easier for tallying up the votes once the judging is over.

The numbers are necessary, since one of the contest rules specifically prohibits the use of anything identifying the competitor in the competition. That way, the entries can all be judged fairly.

I noticed that the facilitators made sure that there were no dirty plates or empty cups cluttering the area. They kept a keen eye on things and swept away the used plasticware quickly.

I overheard them talking about this year's Fair, and how many more entries have come in. Last year there were a total of 1800 Fair entries -- as of this Tuesday, there had been 3200 this year. That's incredible -- and with a number of other competitions to go, it's bound to grow. It's great to know that more people are learning how they can participate in such a great experience.

As the contest wound to a close, the facilitators themselves took time to sample. The judges retired to a private room along the side of the Arts & Crafts Building, and the facilitators looked over the entries. You can tell which ones were the most visually appealing -- because facilitators don't have to try every dish, just the ones that look good to them.

The contest, which had begun at 10:30am, was over by 12:30, when the judges made their pronouncements and the winners were announced. Each category had three winners -- a first, second, and third place. I was surprised and delighted to see that this had been a family affair for many. Two sisters, Meredith and Stephanie Williams, took top prizes -- Meredith for the main dish and best of show, and Stephanie for best salad. The sisters posed for photographs, and then entrants came in and sampled each others' dishes.

While I didn't place in this competition, I had a really good time. It was great to see what individuals could do together with such a contest. I went home with a lot of nifty ideas, and can't wait until I get my Fair Cookbook later this year -- so I can try things out at home.

It's not hard to enter the Fair. For most Arkansas counties, there's a county or regional fair you can enter at before heading on to the big show in Little Rock. For those of us who live in Pulaski County, this is it -- but it's easy and accessible to anyone who wants to enter. There are no restrictions on who can enter -- except that the person who takes the top prize in each category can't compete in that category the following year in some contests.

So put your mind to it. Whether it's cooking, quilting, canning, growing stuff, you name it -- there's a category for you to consider. Start thinking about it now -- you never know what you might come up with.

I know from experience now. This year was my first year to enter at the Fair, and I was shocked and delighted to discover on Friday that I'd placed second in the Arkansas Times "This is Arkansas" photo contest with a picture I took on my visit to Booger Hollow last October. Just goes to show you never can tell.

For more information on entering contests at the Arkansas State Fair, check out the Creative Arts section on the State Fair website.

Fair Food Findings Fulfills Flavor Fix.

The Fair tends to open with a big bang -- if you see it on TV. For those of us who are roaming around behind the scene and at hours other than 5, 6, and 10 -- it starts out slower.

To be honest, it's been a slow rise. A month ago most of us were out here checking out the preview of the action at a special get-together for media folk. We got to meet the Lo Cash Cowboys, sample Pig Lickers and funnel cakes, and generally soak up some excitement. And a lot of it there has been. Doesn't matter if the world is going to hell in a handbasket, there's nothing like the Fair.

So it was that I got out here at noon on opening day. Most of the broadcast media has been here for some time, setting up live trucks and live shots and generally bugging the tar out of vendors and carnies. It's par for the course -- those individuals you see on TV will be sought out by fans of shows, who'll be proud to mention "hey, I saw you on KXXX!"

There were a bit more than just the media crowd when I arrived. There were also a good number of people with their very young kids -- the ones who aren't quite in school yet. They were taking advantage of what seems to be perfect weather -- 80ish with a slight breeze and few clouds in the sky. I noticed a lot of larger bellies this year -- seems we may be going through a bit of a baby boom.

I immediately set out on today's assignment -- wrapping up more than a month's worth of work on Fair food. This particularly American thing of ours, sharing large portions of extremely wild and sometimes unhealthy food, does get us sometimes. I can't imagine gnawing a Pig Licker myself, but my allergy kinda does that in for me. However a lot of other items on the menu were more than delectable, and they made me happy.

The first thing I noticed was the smell. Where later attendees will be overwhelmed with the buttery smell of popcorn, the musk of livestock and the press of human flesh, at opening what you get is the sweet. The air is permeated with the first rounds of cotton candy, lemonade, and funnel cakes. There's a little whiff of meat in the air, but nothing like you'll get later - and absolutely no smell of beer (which, if memory serves, will become overpowering by a week from Sunday).

I took a right after entering at Gate 5 and joined a crowd that had come on one of the shuttles from War Memorial Stadium. I like this idea -- parking is always fun here, sure, but being able to park and ride directly to the gate's just primo.

My first stop for pictures was at a large stand featuring, no
surprise, all sorts of porkiness. Ribs and bacon and other porcine delights grabbed at passersby, as the first batch came off the mighty grill. I did spy a bit of chicken there, too.

Further along, I glimpsed into the entertainment pavilion, where the first drinks and snacks of the day were being served up. Further along, an iced tea dealer was selling half gallons -- what a splendid and wonderful idea.

The Big Show restaurant seemed to still be closed -- perhaps in preparation for rush hour and dinner, when it will serve up big tacos and burritos for the first time in years. Mexican food hasn't been around these past few years for some reason, but this year it will make a resurgence.


Out on the midway and the carny aisle, lemonade seems to be the drink of choice. All these vendors appear to be very clean, very fresh -- they take pride in their stands and make sure everything is tip-top before the Fair begins. After all, you eat with the eyes first.

There's one vendor that surprises me -- a double decker trailer where a guy sits up top spinning cotton candy. It's something to see, for sure.

Further along is the Turkey Leg guy. You can purchase Turkey Legs many places, but here they're cooked on an open grill just feet away from you, no window in-between.

I've had Fair turkey legs before and love them, but the echo in my head about turkey goes something like the siren call of tryptophan... and I could just see myself schnoozing off.

Not that you'd get the chance around here. Everywhere around there's sound. There was a band warming up on the stage next to the Hall of Industry, barkers calling games, the sound of vehicles backing into position and the chatter all around of excited people. It's too early in the day for anyone to really be tired of anything, and that's nice.

The vendor by the Turkey Leg Guy has big rolls of Italian Sausage cooking, alongside Pork Tenderloins and big piles of onions. Sausages, tenderloins, and half pound burgers all go for $7 -- which might seem like a lot, but have you visited your local middle-of-the-road eatery these days? For once, Fair food might actually be considered a bargain.

Not far down from there, near the rapelling wall and the Lazer Tag booth, Cotton Candy is selling at $4 and $6 for mighty large portions. Though, really -- isn't it all air? Caramel and candy apples are a bargain at $3 -- another item that few kids will actually finish.

Sissy's Place is here -- I saw them a few months ago at the Cave City Watermelon Festival, and they're serving up all sorts of fried delights here, too -- including Gator on a Stick. Well, we all have our fun new things to try.

Next door the smell of meat is prevalent, at the Gyro stand. I remember as a little girl this was one of only two places you could pick up a gyro (the other being the Greek Food Festival in May). Gyros have evolved -- and now they're joined by Black Angus, Seafood Pitas, and Rosemary Garlic Chicken -- $9 for the two former and $8 for the latter.

But it's around the corner that draws the biggest draw. The Pig Lickers are here -- and they're not the same sort of Pig Lickers we saw at the media preview day. Let's give the Fair folks credit -- all they had was a description.

These folks heard about the original from the Minnesota State Fair, and they have their act
together. These Pig Lickers are sticks of pork doused in chocolate and you can get them with salt or sprinkles for an additional 50 cents. Something else!

A batch of four Pig Lickers will cost you $5. Share them with a friend.

You'll find the Pig Lickers at the Burger Wagon, where you can also get Hub Cap Burgers. These things are mighty large.

They also have big piles of home-cut skin-on fries, served on their own or with cheese, chili, and even jalapenos. There's more food on one of those platters than I could ever hope to consume!

Next door up the hill is the best smelling booth at the whole fair. It's Aunt Emma's Chocolate Chip Cookies, and these suckers are big.

Yes, $6 for a cookie may seem like a lot, but one of these suckers weighs as much as a box of Chips Ahoy and it's as big as your head -- maybe larger in circumference and about 3/4 of an inch thick. They're soft, sweet, and oh so good.

You can even have milk with your cookie for $3 more. And if the big cookies scare you, you can always go for a smaller one for a smaller price.

Of course, there's the Slush Factory -- a big wall of slushies that range from $4 for kids sizes and $6 for a yard of slushee. Around the corner you'll find a pizzaria where pizzas are $3.50 a slice or $25 for a whole pie and foot-long corn dogs for $6. Roasted corn on the cob is $4 across the aisle.

The Corner Cafe is run by the Fair folks, and this is where you'll find some marvelous stuff, like fried jalapenos and fried pickles.

The guys working were quite busy but didn't mind me dipping into the back and taking shots as they threw items into the deep fryer.

What I initially thought were big chicken legs were actually large frog legs, the largest I have ever seen. And those "chicken tenders" are actually catfish tenderloins. Wow.

Not far down is a vendor selling something called a Pineapple Whip, which I will have to try before I go. Pineapple and ice cream to a pregnant lady is ambrosia.

But I was on a search. I passed by the Superdog stand -- where incredible footlong dogs were being created.

I love how this booth smells. The big weiners are battered when you order them and cooked on the spot.

The scent of frying
cornmeal smells like an autumn night at harvest time, reminiscent of the scent of a bonfire of cornstalks. There was already quite a line at Superdog, and for good reason.

Across the way is the Grater Taters booth. That's where you can find fried cheese for $4 and fried Snickers and Milky Way bars for the same.

The next corner is Mickey's Grill (with the Turkey Legs sign on top and the biggest jar of pickles I think I've ever seen) -- where they serve kebabs $6 for one or $10 for two.

I watched and savored the flavor as a round was cooked up and talked with the proprietor. We shared notes about shooting photos for fun while I enjoyed the lemon pepper chicken aroma wafting over everything.

There's a booth on the other side of the vendor island from Mickey's that's serving up something called a Hot Beef Sundae. Sounds a bit wrong in some way, but looking at it, it makes a lot of sense. Instead of chocolate syrup on a mound of ice cream, this one features a chunk of beef in gravy over mashed potatoes. Cheddar cheese bits replace the sprinkles.

Next door was a vendor straight out of Wisconsin (with Green Bay Packer cred inside) -- selling up fried cheese nuggets. Boy they look good! Of course, Wisconsin being the place for all things cheese, it must be.

But it was the next further vendor that carried exactly what I was searching for -- the Holy Grail of this woman's cravings -- real, honest to goodness T-Ravs. I mentioned it to the proprietor, and he gawked at me and asked if I was from St. Louis. He's traveled to 12 other states for fairs, and it's the first time someone has refered to toasted raviolis by their God-given name.

They're hand-made and come in Italian sausage, four cheese, and more -- and you get eight of them for $6. And they are indeed a meal.

I did find Fried Dr. Pepper at last -- right next to the Hall of Industry steps. And while similar to Fried Coke, it is indeed an experience all its own. It wasn't quite as "Dr. Peppery" as I would have imagined, but it was good, and you can taste the cola within.




It's served up in a 12 ounce cup, little Pepper-flavored dumplings covered in whipped cream, yum.

Next door is the ubiquitous Fried Twinkie stand, with another new entry I'll have to try -- Fried Zingers. Yes, the lovely raspberry and coconut confections, frozen, battered, and then deep fried. Bet it's going to be sweet.

By the time the Fair is over, I stand to gain a few pounds, but the food memories will last forever. I have an appointment to return and see more stuff -- and try my Fair favorite, the funnel cake. For me, no fair is complete without the confection -- and it's about the only time of year I try it.

And of course, my laugh of the day. Take a close look at the sign by the electric bull.

I'm thrilled the Fair is here, and so glad there are nine more days to enjoy it. Perhaps next time I'll venture into the Hall of Industry or out further onto the midway. One way or another, it's important to pace yourself. If you plan to sample lots of the different fare, take friends with you. And I'd suggest some wet naps and paper towels stuck into your trousers, just as insurance -- though even wet naps are no match for blowing powdered sugar in the wind.